Travel and leisure

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Nice and Monaco

Socca, culinary speciality of Nice

When those stems of mimosa arrive in the south of France early in the New Year they always inspire thoughts of this lovely part of the world, writes Penny Visman

Attracted by the balmy climate, the British have had a long love affair with Nice, setting up a colony there in the early 19th century. Hence the famous Promenade des Anglais: it started as a coastal path in 1820.

Queen Victoria became a regular visitor and over the years artists, writers, film stars and celebrities have contributed to the glamorous ambience. Year-round attractions range from the Battle of the Flowers in the Carnival that precedes Lent to the Formula One Monaco Grand Prix (May 25 in 2008).

The profusion of flowers naturally led to the production of perfume. Grasse, known as the perfume capital of the world, is home to the International Perfume Museum as well as the Fragonard museum with fascinating exhibits relating to the history of perfume making. Fragonard also has a shop and factory in Eze, one of the best-preserved medieval hill villages, eight miles from Monaco.

Just fifteen miles from Nice airport, the Principality of Monaco exudes sophistication. It comprises Monaco the old town, Monte Carlo the new town, La Condamine that links them and Fontveille, the industrial section – all within one square mile.

Ten things to see and do in Nice and Monaco:

1. Old Nice: open-air flower and food market on The Place Saleya every day (Monday it becomes a fleamarket). Sample a slice of 'socca' a tasty snack made with chick-pea flour cooked in wood-burning ovens. Explore the maze of little streets to see specialist food shops, ice-cream parlours and tiny restaurants serving local dishes.

2. Pop into the Hotel Negresco: a landmark of the Promenade des Anglais, it was declared a National Historic Building by the French Government in 1974 and has a splendid collection of paintings and sculpture in the corridors and lounges.

3. Nice museum musts: Fine Arts Museum. Naval Museum at the top of a 16th century circular bastion.

4. Go up to the elegant residential area of Cimiez for the Matisse and Chagall galleries.

5. See Monaco from the Azur Express: half an hour in an open-sided 'train' that trundles past the port, palaces, casino and gardens.

6. Try the Monegasque speciality 'barbagiuan': an appetiser of rice, spinach, leek and cheese.

7. The Princess Grace Rose Garden: 4,000 rose trees of more than 150 varieties.

8. The Jardin Exotique: some 7,000 varieties of succulent plants.

9. Go to the theatre: Monaco's gloriously gilded opera house, designed by Charles Garnier of Paris Opera fame, is part of the Casino complex. Monte Carlo has its own opera and ballet company, plus Philharmonic Orchestra and Princess Grace Theatre.

10. Monaco museum musts: Prince's Palace with state apartments, galleries, salons, chapel and tower. Courtyard with marble staircase is the venue for summer concerts. First floor of south wing is dedicated to the history of the Principality. Private collection of dozens of vintage and veteran cars includes 1903 De Dion Bouton, 1929 Citroen Torpedo and 1952 Rolls Royce.

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