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48 hours in Prague
Less than two hours from London, Prague makes for a perfect weekend break. Nicola Iseard has the lowdown on the best way to spend your time
Morning stroll...
Prague is probably the most beautiful city you'll ever visit, and there is no better way to explore its stunning architecture than on foot. Get up early, while the city still sleeps, and stroll its maze of cobbled streets, peppered with pretty Gothic and Renaissance town houses and baroque churches laced with gold.
Pass through the winding alleyways of Mala Strana, located on the west bank of the river Vltava, and you'll find some lovely boutiques selling everything from wooden toys to hand-blown glass. For even more souvenirs, pop into some of the small shops dotted around the Old Town too.
Cafe for refreshments...
Cafe Slavia, located across from the National Theatre, is the grand dame of Prague cafes. With its elegant art deco interior, it is like stepping back into the 1930s, a time when it was a popular meeting place for artists and intellectuals. Order some tea and cream cake and grab a table by the window - the views of Prague Castle are fabulous.
Literary fans should head to The Globe Bookstore and Coffeehouse, one of the most famous bookstores in the world. Enjoy a tall latte and a chocolate brownie in the California-style cafe, before browsing through old paperbacks in the cosy reading room (the store houses the largest collection of used paperback literature and nonfiction in the city).
Afternoon excursion...
Sloping up from Mala Strana is Petrin Hill, the highest, greenest and most serene of the city's hills. Hop on the funicular railway to the summit, where you can climb the 299 steps to the top of the Petrin Tower. The sweeping views of the red roofs and spires below are unbeatable. The views from the Stefanik Observatory are pretty good too - telescopes offer glimpses of planets during the day and panoramas of the stars on clear nights.
Around an hour's drive from the city will land you at the foot of the Karlstejn, the country's most visited castle. Inside you can join in a tour which takes you through the library and the splendid Holy Rood Chapel, famous for its walls adorned with thousands of semi-precious stones.
Evening entertainment...
No trip to Prague is complete without a visit to one of the city's churches for a classical concert (tickets can be bought an hour or two before the performance is scheduled to start). Favourites include the St. George's Basilica - a fine example of the city's baroque architecture, with resounding organ acoustics. As well as large-scale choral performances, the music for Sunday mass is very impressive.
Arguably the best time to see the city from the water is during the early evening, when most of the best buildings are floodlit. Hop onboard a guided river cruise, where you can enjoy a drink while learning all about Prague's most famous attractions.
Supper time...
For prime riverside romancing, Hergetova Cihelna takes the crown. Take in the views of Charles Bridge and Prague's Old Town while dining on international fare (the pizza is delicious, thanks to a pizza chef from Naples who sticks religiously to his home recipes). After dinner, head upstairs to the lounge bar for a nightcap.
The city also boasts a labyrinth of cellar restaurants, which are well worth a visit. Flambée, located in an 11th century gothic cellar with intimate candle-lit tables, is one of the most impressive restaurants in Prague. Dishes range from homemade noodles with lobster to wild hare, and diners are serenaded by a pianist every night.
* Nicola Iseard is the deputy travel editor of the Daily Express.
