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Seville: treasures, tapas and orange trees

Seville - the Alcazar

Sunny Seville has perfected the art of leafy shade, and it can very restorative to intersperse sight-seeing with strolling in glorious gardens or retreating into a tapas bar, writes Penny Visman

Arcaded courtyards and flowering trees are very much part of the ambience of Seville. The idyllic gardens of Reales Alcazares (Royal Fortress) are almost dream-like with exotic vistas and the exquisite 15th century Ambassador's Salon.

Another oasis is the Maria Luisa Park. And although horse-drawn carriages are usually too much of a cliché for most of us, it really is a delight to clip clop through here. The driver will usually include a stop at the nearby Plaza de Espana, an extravaganza of decorative tiles that represent all the provinces of Spain.

Orange trees line some of the streets in this area and the heady fragrance of orange blossom combined with jasmine has been captured in the lovely local perfume 'Agua de Sevilla'. Another must-see is the Casa de Pilatos, a 16th century palace where elegant arches, columns and fountains are highlighted with exuberant bougainvillea. There are many other gardens to explore in this vibrant city, as well as the paths along the Guadalquivir River.

The graceful Giralda is the symbol of Seville. Originally the minaret of the ancient mosque it is now the belfry of the cathedral. And yes, you can climb the series of ramps in the interior for a panoramic view from the top.

Seville Cathedral is the largest Gothic building in Europe. Treasures here include the massive 16th century altar-piece; gold and silver artefacts; paintings by Goya and Murillo as well as the great bronze tomb of Christopher Columbus. Columbus set sail from Seville on his epic voyages, and it is said that he named the Caribbean island of Antigua after the fresco of Nuestra Senora de la Antigua in Seville Cathedral. The Archive of the Indies, next to the cathedral, contains millions of documents on the discovery of the New World.

There are many literary and musical references too. This is the birthplace of the stories of Don Juan, and several famous operas include local scenes (Carmen's tobacco factory is now part of the university).

You are never far from a tapas bar in Seville. Tapas means 'lid or cover' in Spanish and originally referred to slices of bread placed over drinks to keep out the flies. They have evolved, of course, into an art-form of tasty snacks served on tiny plates. The almost limitless choice ranges from local cheese, seafood and vegetables to Jamon Iberico (salt cured ham from small pigs fed on acorns). If you want a larger portion, ask for a 'racion', which is a full plate.

  • Holy Week (Semana Santa) is when numerous floats bearing religious works of art are followed by hundreds of penitents wearing cloaks and hoods.
  • The April Fair (Feria de Abril), two weeks after Easter has a carnival atmosphere. Girls wear flamenco dress and some of the main bullfights of the year are held.

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