With almost all women wearing the wrong size bra, we’ve got expert advice on the dos and don’ts of bra fitting and the uplifting benefits they can bring.
Can you remember the last time you had a bra fitting? For most women, the answer is probably “Erm, no”.
But with bra-retailer surveys – and even academic studies – revealing up to 93% of us are wearing badly-sized bras, where are we going wrong? And why is the perfect fit so important?
Bra expert, stylist and educator Claire Ginzler says it’s all down to breast confidence and care, both of which plummet as we age.
“Sadly, we’ve been neglecting our fabulous boobs”, explains Claire. “No matter our younger relationship with our bust, we must remember that it’s still worthy of pride and care [as we get older].
“The emotional lift of a well-fitting bra can be astonishing,” Claire points out. “Not only will it improve posture, how your clothes fit and your breasts’ lift and shape, you’ll feel much better about your bosom. No more hiding it away!”
Claire also points out that most breasts have been through a lot. Pregnancy, breastfeeding, hormonal shifts, changes in density, weight loss and gain, and possible surgeries.
Kelly Wright, lingerie merchandiser for John Lewis, stresses the importance of having regular bra fittings: “Our bra size completely changes at different life stages, so it’s easy to find yourself wearing a bra that is the wrong fit for you.
“No matter your age, a badly-fitting bra can cause chaffing and general discomfort, marks on the shoulders or chest, as well as back and shoulder pain over time. Which is why a personal appointment is so important in finding the right style and fit.”
Claire Ginzler explains why common bra mistakes can be bad news for our boobs.
“Many women are going too big in the band,” Claire says. “Weight gain prompts us to size up here, when a larger cup is often better.
“If your bra is riding up at the back then size down in the band and go up a cup size. A simple tweak like going from a 38D to 36E – we call it ‘sister sizing’ – can work wonders. Bras ‘give’ over time, so make sure the band is fastened on the slackest hook and eye.
“A bigger cup size reduces ‘side spillage’ and the dreaded ‘double boob’, where breasts bulge over the top.”
An overlooked bra component is the panel that connects the cups in the middle, at the front of the bra.
Claire explains: “It’s important that the centre gore sits flat to your ribcage. If not, you’re missing out on crucial support.”
“There should be no digging in, particularly if you suffer with shoulder pain,” says Claire. “And there’s nothing worse than straps that slip down, so they should sit snuggly without being too tight.”
“For an AA to C cup, I’d recommend a double hook and eye,” advises Claire. “For D to F, a triple clasp and I’d suggest a four-row fastener for above an F, for extra band support.”
Can underwiring be bad for our bust? “There is no evidence that wired bras restrict circulation or increase cancer risk, or anything like that,” says Claire. “They’re crucial for support and I’d only advise non-wired for smaller busts. If your wires are digging in, go up a cup size but make sure they sit flush to your ribcage.”
Claire says: “Mature women often avoid balconette bras, for fear of having a cleavage. But the balcony cup is perfect for larger boobs that have lost volume. The lift and shape are flattering, without pushing the breasts together.
You don’t get the spillage you often find with a plunge style, or the gaping cup of a T-shirt bra.
“For women struggling with poor hand grip or conditions such as arthritis, some front-fastening bras feature much easier clasps.”
Claire says: “The Panache Allure Demi Balcony is a comfy, high-quality bra with a great fit for a larger bust. The balcony gives a natural uplift and pretty scalloped edging.
“The Dora Larsen Delilah Clean Tulle offers good support for the small to medium-sized bust and has a smooth fit in lots of colourways.”
Kelly recommends the Triumph Amourette: “It’s a great all-rounder bra in beautiful lace that comes in five shapes, non-padded, padded, minimiser, underwired and breathable ‘spacer cup’ to support a range of different needs.”
Bra retailers recommend a fitting every six months, or annually at the very least.
In-store fitting is in a private cubicle, and you’ll be made to feel at ease. It will be over your bra, either with a tape measure or by sight alone – sometimes a combination of both.
Virtual online appointments are also available, and one store even promises to find your dream bra over the phone, while another offers 3D-scanning technology. All fitting services listed below are free of charge.
Victoria’s Secrets Bra Fit Experts advise a three-step bra-measurement method:
Claire Ginzler’s Tips For Your Tits podcast offers more advice on finding the right bra and building breast confidence.
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