The Ghan: an unforgettable train adventure through the Australian outback

A firm jolt and the train’s bold red engine slowly hauled its snake-like body away from the platform. This was the start of The Ghan Expedition, an epic Australian rail adventure that rolls between the wet tropics of Darwin in the Northern Territory (NT) and the wheat fields and urban sprawl of Adelaide in the South.

The train winds along the spine of Australia to places of incredible natural beauty and Aboriginal cultural importance which most travellers, even Aussies, never lay their eyes on.

The four-day, three-night journey is one of the world’s iconic rail routes. An extended version of the original three-day service, it covers 2,979km of track through Australia’s vast outback, following in the footsteps of early explorers.

There’s no TV or Wi-Fi (although you can pick up an internet connection in some stations and towns along the way).

The Ghan was named after the pioneering cameleers, many of whom were from Afghanistan and known as ‘Ghans’. They helped to open inhospitable inland Australia to settlers by providing a thriving camel transportation business.

The first Ghan locomotive departed Adelaide in 1929, but it wasn’t until 2004 that a modern track stretched all the way from Alice Springs to Darwin; 2024 marks the 20th anniversary of this completed track.

The carriages rocked as we picked up speed and soon Darwin was left behind in the dust. We travelled at around 115km an hour with three stops across the four days for off-train experiences. The 914-metre, 36-carriage train uses two locomotives to haul 49 crew and a maximum of 300 guests across the desert (on my trip, there are 280).

Our first stop was Katherine, 300km south of Darwin. Off-train experiences are included in The Ghan Expedition price, except for scenic flights and helicopter tours, which are available at an additional cost. You can choose one from around three options per location.

I selected a tour of Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park to gaze at a rugged landscape and Aboriginal rock art made by those who occupied this harsh land long before the European settlers. At Katherine, there were also coach trips to the huge Cutta Cutta caves, or an outback horse and dog training experience.

Back on board, the vibe was relaxed and casual. Passengers generally don’t dress up for dinner – this is no Orient Express!

I spent most of my time in the buzzing Outback Explorer lounge car, listening to stories from the barman, enjoying the all-inclusive drinks and watching the wattle trees (acacias), termite mounds and russet-coloured sand whisk by.

In the Queen Adelaide Restaurant, we were served unusual and exciting dishes according to the region we were travelling through: smoked kingfish with beetroot, crocodile dumplings, grilled kangaroo loin and saltwater barramundi.

While dining, my ‘Gold’ service twin cabin was discreetly transformed into a bedroom with bunk berths complete with crisp, white linen and plump pillows.

Although starting to show its age (which adds to the train’s charm), it’s comfortable; however with two sharing, it could be tight. There’s a fold-down table and a small bathroom with a walk-in shower. Rocking rhythmically over the tracks, I was soon soothed to sleep.

Passengers travelling in ‘Platinum’ class experience old-world luxury, with timber flooring, brass fittings and large windows. In 2024, a new ‘Gold Premium’ class service, superior to ‘Gold’ but not as flash as ‘Platinum’, will also be offered.

Through the night, we travelled 1,183km, rivets squeaking and wheels passing over the hot steel to Alice Springs at Australia’s heart. In Alice, I took a scenic flight (around £730) over 450km of harsh outback terrain to the remarkable sandstone monolith of Uluru.

Later, an off-train evening barbecue was prepared at an old telegraph relay station and museum on the outskirts of Alice Springs. Here, entertainment, food and even a camel ride are available to passengers.

On day three, we crossed into South Australia where, in the summer, temperatures can reach 50⁰C in the shade. But onboard the train the air-conditioned temperature is always pleasant.

Around 40km south of Coober Pedy, we pulled into a siding at Manguri (The Ghan is too long to fit Coober Pedy station). Coober Pedy is a small outback town full of independent opal diggers, eccentrics and fortune seekers. It’s Australia’s closest thing to the Wild West. To escape the scorching heat, its homes were built underground, and some people still live in these giant rabbit warrens, which are a cool 20⁰C.

One local miner told me why he lives there: ‘Hope. Hope that one day you’ll discover the perfect opal that may just be on your patch of ground and will turn your life around for good.’

Reaching South Australia’s cosmopolitan capital Adelaide meant the end of our rail journey. Adelaide is a young, vibrant city, rich in recent history and with a passion for fine living. It boasts a superb climate, great food and a thriving cultural scene.

I stepped off The Ghan with a sense of achievement and wonder. The expedition is one of the greatest rail journeys in the world; you won’t experience anything like it anywhere else on the planet.