Sommelier's choice: the best wines to drink at home

Sommeliers don’t usually work with mules these days. But that was once their job.

The name sommelier comes from the Middle French name for the person who looked after the ‘bête de somme’ – beast of burden – that carried the provisions of a grand household.

A piece of golden wine advice is to ‘drink like a sommelier’

There would be food, spices and wine. Over time, these roles were whittled down, leaving just the best bit.

A piece of golden wine advice is to ‘drink like a sommelier’. Contrary to popular opinion, they are canny, not grand.

They might serve fabulous wines to plutocratic guests, but at home they drink on the same budget as the rest of us – only they spend it better, searching out good-value countries and under-appreciated grapes.

A few under appreciated grapes to try

El Zumbido Garnacha Syrah 2023

RRP £10.99, Vintage by Saga 

Up there are wines like this Syrah (13.5%). Garnacha is known as the ‘warm climate pinot noir’, mixing eager berry fruit with freshness – only far less expensive.

Spain is the smarter alternative to Italy or the USA, too. Mid-weight wines like this work brilliantly with food.

Patient Cottat ‘The Pebble’ Chenin Blanc, Val de Loire

RRP £9.50, Tesco

When I started in wine, I learned by asking sommeliers for recommendations. It got me into chenin blancs like 'The Pebble’ (12%), which is zesty and refreshing with chenin blanc’s signature stone fruit.

Sommeliers love it because it works with fish and light meat dishes.

Irresistible Marsanne

RRP £9.50, Co op

Southern French wines like the Irresistible Marsanne (13.5%), mixes warm peach and apricot scents with a lip-smacking freshness; a fabulous autumnal white for creamy dishes.

More sommelier's favourites

The caricature of a sommelier is usually a disdainful man looking down his nose at your ‘second-cheapest-on-the-list’ choice. Though it works both ways.

Elizabeth Bird was New York’s first ever female sommelier in 1943. Hers was a story so extraordinary it made The New York Times. 'She… has learned the knack – the envy of many a wife – of being respectful yet not obsequious; of getting her way without offending male vanity,' the paper said.

Sometimes the sommelier's job is just to remember your favourites. Her secret? "She sticks to things she knows something about."

It’s as true of all sommeliers today as it was in 1943. That’s why they recommend grapes like Grüner Veltliner.

They know the white pepper finish will complement your meal, but they also know that it’s good value as it usually needs to be well-priced to sell.

Taste the Difference Grüner Veltliner, Austria

RRP £11, Sainsbury's

This Grüner Veltliner (12.5%) gets you the restaurant experience at home: aromatic, mouth-filling and versatile, with citrus and spice.

Mimo Moutinho Dão 

RRP £5.99, Aldi

They’ll also take you to regions on the way up, like Mimo Moutinho Dão (13%), the latest in a fabulous range of wines from this Portuguese producer.

It has red and black fruits, a lovely balance.

Hugel Gewurztraminer

RRP £22.50, Oxford Wine

Sometimes the job is just to remember your favourites. I was once a sommelier at The Angel Inn at Hetton, in the Yorkshire Dales, and recall Morris and Margaret who came every week for dinner.

They loved this Hugel Gewurztraminer (14%): dry, but heady and aromatic with jasmine and rose petals.

Sommeliers never forget. I last served them in 1989.